KK2.0 Flight Controller – Information and FAQ
Information and FAQ for the KK2.0 Flight Controller.
• Quad yawing to the right or left
Go into PI Editor, Axis: Yaw (Rudder), Increase or decrease the Yaw I Limit setting. Increasing it will stop the yawing to the right. Decreasing it will stop the yawing to the left.
• Dome for your quad
You can also use a CD/DVD Stack Cover, Kitchen Plastic Bowls, Tupperware Onion Containers.
Q: Have you used the Height Dampening feature?
A: The height dampening feature is not Altitude hold exactly (no barometer or pressure sensors onboard the KK2) but it is a unique feature that counteracts the loss of altitude when changing pitch/roll angle of the copter (does nothing if in a still hover). It could be advantageous to a beginner who hasn’t perfected throttle control yet.
Posted by kapteinkuk
Height Dampening uses the Z accelerometer to dampen vertical movements caused by wind or tilting the craft.
“Height D. Limit” Limits how much power available for dampening. Try 30 for the “Height Dampening” and 10 (10%) for “Height D. Limit”.
Q: My LCD screen came loose, what should I do?
A: The LCD loosening up is normal with the KK2 unfortunately. The LCD sits within a plastic bracket and the LCD lifts up on the side facing the buttons. On that very side use a drop of CA in the two corners of the plastic bracket and then push lcd back down into place and gently continue to hold it down for 20-30 seconds for the CA to set. So your basically gluing the LCD to the corners of the plastic bracket the LCD sits in.
Q: My LCD screen came loose where the servo tape holds it to the Atmega IC.
A: You can use some hot glue or servo tape, either will work fine. Using hot glue will not damage the Atmega.
Just make sure the glue has properly dried before powering the KK2 board.
Q: I want to oil my motor bearings but they are sealed. How would the oil get in the bearings?
A: Although they are called “sealed” they are not air tight (especially metal sealed) and oil will seep into them as well as out of them over use.
Doing this requires removal of the c clip (can be tricky if you’ve never done so. Use a large zip lock bag or similar clear bag and remove the clip from within the bag so if it shoots out you won’t lose it, same thing when putting it back on) and pulling the bell off the motor giving you access to the upper bearing and the shaft itself. I also like to add a drop or two onto the inner bearing before sliding the shaft/bell back on.
It also always good idea to dismantle new motors and give everything a little touch up with brushless motor oil and make sure none of the magnets are loose and reglue them with CA if they are.
Q: Which way do I mount the Flight Controller on my quad”
A: On the back of the board there is a small arrow indicating which way is forward. The buttons should face the rear of the Quad, and the screen towards the front of the Quad. The videos position the Quad/board to the viewers perspective and also makes reading the text easier if its not upside down.
Q: Do I use the same settings for Acro amd Self-Level Mode?
A: As far as copying the Acro values over to the Self Level, yes, I would use the same values as a starting point and then adjust them as needed.
Q: What kind of motor do you recommend?
A: You should use out-runners. T-Motors are probably the best quality you can get but are very costly. The Turnigy XP line of motors are great budget motors that work very well but require that you take care of them keeping the bearings lubed and cleaned regularly. If proper maintenance is done then the bearings should last a long time regardless of the type of motor you decide to go with though.
I have also had great luck with the NTM series of motors which are more robust than the Turnigy’s but also heavier and more expensive and the bolt on prop adapters arent included and cost an additional $3/each.
Q: Can the Power Distribution Board I bought handle enough amps to run my motors?
A: Yes, that power distribution board would be sufficient for your needs. The esc’s simply plug directly into the board (once you’ve soldered male bulled connectors onto them) and then your flight battery plugs into the pigtail sticking out of the board (the Hobbyking one comes with the XT60 connector, but you can replace it with
whatever connector you mainly use). The esc’s get powered directly from the battery (power distribution board) and then the servo cables into the right side of the KK2 into the appropriate motor locations (M1, M2, M3, M4). The esc’s built in becs will power the KK2, receiver and any servos you might use (for camera Gimbals, or Tricopters rear tilting mechanism).
Q: How should I mount the Flight Controller?
A: I would highly recommend against using any kind of stand offs for mounting the KK2. In a crash, the frame will always flex ever so slightly causing the KK2 to flex as well and likely damaging the gyros connection to the pcb board, rendering it useless.
I would use something like 3M/Scotch double sided mounting tape to secure the board down. It works great and also will help dampen any vibrations. Gyro or Servo tape should work a treat too.
Q: What ESC’s do you recommend?
A: I would personally suggest using Hobbyking’s F-30A ESC flashed with SimonK as they have an all N-Fet design and use a crystal Oscillator which performs flawlessly in any range of outdoor temperatures. They can be purchased pre-flashed on eBay from anywhere between $17-25 per ESC but if you are a little handy can purchase them directly from Hobbyking.com for $9-10 and then flash them yourself with SimonK using a Usbasp programmer/Atmel Atmega Socket firmware flashing tool and LazyZero’s free flashing software.
You are able to to flash your Turnigy plush with BLheli firmware, you will then be able to use much higher P gains to increase responsiveness.
Flash the escs with BLheli and you will notice a huge difference in response time and performance
Q: Will my Spektrum 6100 work OK for my quad and do I need a satellite?
A: Your AR6100 will work perfectly fine as I have used them myself in the past with 450mm sized multirotors and smaller without issue.
As for my satellites, I am using a custom firmware, based on the 1.6 official firmware, which allows the KK2 to output a PWM signal through the KK2’s throttle channel and thus allowing the use of a single receiver to sat cable adapter for me to use just a Spektrum Sattelite receiver to control the board. It’s purely aesthetic as it makes for a tidier setup, but does save a negligible amount of weight since your not using the extra 4 male to male servo cables.
Q: I would like to use my gear switch for Self-Level mode instead of my AUX switch. Do
I connect my “Gear” plug from my Rx to the AUX on the FC?
A: Yes you would
Q: If I would like to try a 4S would it be OK? The ESC can handle a 4S, it sends 5v to the
flight controller no matter if it is a 3S or 4S, correct?
Q: I just have to make sure my motors can run on 4S, correct?
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